View Full Version : Broken weight - Kurzweil inside
Last gig a hammer in my K2500xs broke :-( because I have a gig tomorrow I had to fix it by myself. On the pictures you can see it, one of the hammers just broke off. Do you know where I can get such a hammer to change it? Can I do this by myself??
I think this shouldn't happen to such an expensive synth...
http://www.7amp.de/daniel/weight.jpg
http://www.7amp.de/daniel/K2500.jpg
http://www.7amp.de/daniel/moreK2500.jpg
http://www.7amp.de/daniel/work.jpg
...another idea: do you know how I could change the broken hammer with another one that I don't use that much? As you see on the photos I can open the Kurz till I reach the hammer, but how do I get it out?
Enigma™
11-28-2003, 02:07 PM
PAGING BRETT!!!
Angelic Layer
11-30-2003, 06:00 AM
I only tried to replace keys in a Yamaha, its way easier than on a Kurz.
I talked to someone from from the german kurzweil-service and he told me this could happen to older Kurzweils (well, the K2500 is 'old') because the plastics in which the weight is in becomes brittle. I'm still waiting for his answer about the prices.
I moved the broken hammers (they where all non flats) to the top octave of my K2500xs.
I then purchased some replacement hammers from a Kurzweil Authorized tech, the idiot sold me K2600 weights/hammers which I found out are not compatable with k2500 (the K2600 weights are larger and don't fit into k2500 casing)
Now taking apart your keybed is a big project, removing weights requires removing each key, spring and weight assembly that is connected to 2 metal rods.
Just take notes, keep everything organized.
If you can buy a few replacement weights for the k2500.
Thank you Rexx. As you can see on the picture above I removed all parts till I reached the hammer. Could you just describe how to take it out, do I have to remove other parts before?
Ok, you have the keybed remove out of the synth, next you remove each spring, (the darker springs are for flats black keys)
I usually throw these into a large bowl and use a small jewlers screw driver to help pop them out.
Next, each key must be removed, I numbered mine A0 - C8 in an area that wont be seen once I reassemble. (this helps in reassembly!)
The keys come off once you push in the plastic tab that holds them in place.
Note: When you reassemble the black keys go in last.
Now you have to unscrew the hammer/weights assembly.
Then you have to remove the weights from the rod, because there is 2 rods, you may have to only disassemble one half of the weights.
Putting the weights assembly all back together is a little difficult, maybe brett can share some short cuts there? :roll:
For me that is very difficult to explain but I did it, it was just the most difficult part of the task.
Shreddy
12-01-2003, 02:07 PM
I've replaced keys in my Roland Juno 6 and JV80 and it was rather simple after I got to the keybed. Sorry to hear you have to remove all the keys that sounds like its going to suck.
Ed
Dude...
E-mail me at Rabin1918@yahoo.com.
I've got connections at Kurzweil, and can probably help you get this thing happening as soon as possible.
Just trying to help a fellow keyboard player in need!
-- Bert
I eMails you, thanx for your help. I'll tell the result of this in here when I'll have it replaced. But with Rexx's instructions this shouldn't be a problem ;-)
Rexx: I have the keyboard open and have the hammer/weights-assembly removed. Now I can't take the from the axes, I can't put it out... what do I have to do? Just take some pliers and pull it out?
You unscrew the plastic casings that hold the plastic weights, then you slide the plastic casing/weights off the rod.
Take notes, make drawings or you'll have trouble reassembling.
I really can't cakewalk you through the whole operation, it just helps when you're already experienced at taking things apart and solving problems then successfully putting them back together.
I've taken my keybed apart twice now and still don't have the top octave working 100% right. (Thanks to being sold ABS k26 weights that I ended up hack sawing and filing to fit.)
I hate doing that operation so much I says "It's good enough" now.
When you reassemble use some tape to hold the electronic connectors in place to the Pitch wheel MW module and the keybed connectors.
It's a flimsy design in that you need to use tape because after a few moves those connectors can wiggle loose, (there's no snap in place) then you lose aftertouch and all kinds of stuff.
I can't mention this enough, "I hate taking my K2500xs apart"
And the last time I took it apart and put it back together I thought everything was kosher then I found one of the tiny ribbon connectors feeding the MW module was sitting underneath my lowest key A0.
So like it or not I have to whip it apart AGAIN. :roll:
Also I always have to double check my floppy drive still ejects a floppy disk when I close the case.
It's a bitch of a project I wouldn't wish on anyone. All the more reason to suggest ppl buy a K2600x.
Well, I have it opened like this now:
http://www.7amp.de/daniel/keybed.jpg
My problem is to put the single weights off the colored part in the picture. But I was told that pasting it together would be enough, so I pasted it on again right now.
The best thing would be to get a new weight-assembly (colored part), because these parts are known to get bad by the time...
Hope I never have to do anything like that. It looks painfull.
Who told you to paste anything? The only place I used glue was on the felts that came loose from the weights.
You can buy just the weights you need and probably don't need a whole new weight assembly.
(Kurzweil probably never solved the k25 weight problem but rather just came up with a better design thru Fatar.)
Personally I've never broken one weight myself but some people have heavier key striking tendencies.
*gg* I also didn't expect such thing. I've been using 'cheaper' gear (Korg N5 and Roland A90ex) for years, but only a half year after buying an expensive one like the Kurzweil something breaks... :(
Finally after 1,5 h I have it assembled again. Someone who used a PC88 told me about pasting it, he has done it some years ago and it worked fine he told. Nevertheless, if I can get a new weight assembly I'll take it.
I'd change the whole assembly because it includes the plastic-parts, which I was told becomes bad after some time. I don't know the price, but I guess Bert is looking for it already.
So, let's see if it still works... :roll:
It seems to be solid, I played a whole gig with the fixed hammer and had no problems. If I'll find the time I'll out up a gear tutorial about the inside of a K2500XS and opening the weight assembly :-)
Thanks for your help everyone!
@Bert: I'm still interested in the price of the weight assembly as a replacement part, just to get sure nothing will happen at a big gig. Thanks!
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